The Bishops Palace, Wells and Newark Castle

Last weekend was a busy one and I took itinerant storytelling to new extremes, by telling at both the Bishops Palace in Wells, Somerset and Newark Castle in Nottinghamshire on two successive days. It was six hundred miles of telling and traveling in all.

The Medieval Gatehouses
The Cathedral gate to the left, the Palace gate to the right
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Wells Bishop's Palace is like no other Cathedral complex I've ever been before, which is probably because of the moat that still surrounds the Palace.

The second defensive gate which passes over the moat

Its that moat which not only gives you a real sense of the past, but also gives the whole of the Palace a real sense of peace and isolation. Its ironic that I was telling there to draw in visitors, but there was just a little bit of me that wanted to keep it all to myself; the way it was when I was setting up.

The Medieval Moat

The back of the Palace

Obviously many of the Bishops who lived in the Palace adapted the building and rebuilt them to suit changing tastes and all put their individual stamp on the place - Men like Bishop Beckynton who built the late medieval well house and topped it off with a sculpture of his favourite hunting dog. The importance of the residence can be seen in the fact that the gate leading to the Palace from the market is larger and more ornate than the corresponding gate leading to the Cathedral.

'Inside' the the remains of the great hall


My tent 'inside' the great hall

As new buildings were added older ones went out of use like the great hall which has now been given back to nature. My storytelling tent was pitched inside the remains of the great hall with a lone spiral staircase tower sticking out the ground immediately behind my tent and in front of me the remains of its huge walls, windows and first floor fire places that now hang in the air; now mere scars that hint at this buildings once lavish past.

Remains of the defensive moat wall

That said this building was not just about beauty, because many of the structures are still dominated by crenelations (battlements) and we should not forget that the medieval Bishops who dwelt here were landed magnates in their own right. Noble men who often imposed great burdens on the commoners and sometimes felt their wrath. In my home City of Norwich the Cathedral was sacked by the citizens in the thirteenth century and during Cade's Rebellion in 1450 the Bishop of Salisbury, Ayscough was murdered by the mob. At Wells it was Bishop Ralph of Shrewsbury who was awarded a 'licence to crenelate' in 1329 and other defences included a portcullis in the inner gatehouse and also 'murder holes' used for casting down rocks and boiling water on attackers. Its a fact that many Bishop's Palaces and Cathedrals complexes were built with defense in mind, which says a lot about the medieval religious hierarchy.

The rebuilt well house
With Bishop Beckynton's favourite hunting hound on top


Looking into the well house

My tent inside the great hall with spiral staircase tower behind

The swarm (Look closely!)

That said I'm not going to overstate the defensive nature of the Bishops Palace. With its meandering moat of clear crisp water is really is a place of beauty and I recently came across a medieval poem which confirms that people long, long ago had a the same love of nature we do today....

Green turf amid silent trees and soft light airs
And a spring of running water in the grass
They freshen a jaded mind, they give me back to myself

They make me abide in myself

12th century French poem, Marbod of Rennes, Meditation Among Trees

I couldn't have put it better myself!

Thanks to Helen for booking me and Debbie and all the very friendly staff and volunteers who dealt so ably with a swarm of bees that engulfed my tent for a while and also looked after me so well.

Ludlow Castle, Shropshire

My storytelling tent in the inner bailey of Ludlow Castle
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Last weekend I was telling at Ludlow Castle Medieval Christmas Fayre. Its my second time there and one of my favourite events of the year. Not least because I love Christmas and the fayre has a wonderful Christmas feel. It's predominantly a craft market with all sorts of great gifts for all. Trust me when I say that I have told at many craft fairs and some can be very dodgy with little more than bread boards covered with poker work and cushions covered in cuddly kittens! But not Ludlow, for just about every stand had something both imaginative and well made being sold on it; from museum quality miniature interiors of castles to colourful felt hats and insect inspired jewelry. And the creative crafts spilt out of the fayre into Ludlow market where one trader was selling old coins and cutlery that he had cut and hammered into stunning bracelets and pendants.

The huge craft tents at Ludlow taken from the Keep

That's the thing about the Ludlow fayre is that it is very much a town event with market traders and local shops staying open late on the Saturday night with many getting dressed up in their most weird and wonderful fancy dress style 'medieval' costumes. Its not about reenactment style authenticity; its about taking part and having a good time. The whole town seems to join in and maybe that has something to do with the old fashioned air about the place. Many of the shops are very traditional in their displays, including the butchers with their produce still hanging outside their widows. There are old timber framed buildings dotted about all over the place that show Ludlow to have been a prosperous place. It must have been full of rich merchants who clearly liked to show their wealth in the excessive decorative woodwork in their houses; much more than was really needed to make them structurally sound. Our ancestors were into showing off just as much as we are today!

The conspicuous consumption of wood!

More showing off


Yet more over the top yet beautiful wood framing

One of a number of butchers in Ludlow with pheasants for sale

The castle also demonstrates our ancestors need to keep up with the latest fashions and fads and its walls are covered in doors and windows from many different periods. Some are now walled up or the heavy wooden doors bolted shut, which all adds to the mystery of the place.

One of many mullioned windows

There may be some cynics out there who just see it as yet another example of the over commercialisation of Christmas, but I don't think it is. Firstly the crafts on sale are all virtually unique and so show some thought has gone into them. Its not just a case of thumbing through the Argos catalogue or doing your shopping on line. I like that! And even though the fayre is predominately about spending money, many people come for the great festive entertainment.. There is of course storytelling and also archery, falconry and all the other things you'd expect at an historic fayre. But there is also lots of festive music, especially bagpipes. Now if you're like me your early experience of bagpipes was the endless screeching of many a Scotsman on the TV on New Years eve, but these are different. They include Northumbrian and various German pipes which are much softer sounding and are great when played with other medieval style instruments and a big drum! I defy anyone not to be drawn in.

The bagpipe festivities well under way

People were dancing and singing along to the various Christmas choirs on site as well as eating and drinking and being very merry. Unfortunately the weather was not that good and there was plenty of rain, but what stood out to me is that it didn't get people down. Thousands turned up over the two days and every one was smiling. I'm not into the religious aspects of Christmas and prefer to treat it as a winter festival, a time of feasting and fun at the coldest and darkest time of the year and that's exactly how many of the visitors to the fayre seemed to treat it as well. A time to forget about credit crunches and wet weekends and to eat, drink and be very, very merry!

Thanks to Wynndbag and all the other entertainers and volunteers.

Nottingham Robin Hood Pageant

Last weekend I was telling at the annual Robin Hood Pageant in the grounds of Nottingham castle. As you would expect Robin Hood and his merry men are here there and everywhere. As is the cruel Sheriff who battles with Robin many times over the weekend in the main arena up in the top bailey earthwork of the castle.

Entrance to the fayre in Lower bailey
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The main action however is down in the outer baileys, a beautiful setting for the fayre with all the tents nestling amongst the trees; their leaves turning golden brown and scattered all about. Row upon row of lights hang from the trees adding color and light on the dark wintry days of the weekend. Much like Ely It has a Christmas feel to it with many crafts represented in the many colorful tents.

The autumn fayre thru the trees in the lower bailey

There are all sorts of traders dealing in all sorts of historical goods, from hand fletched arrows to spindle whorls for spinning wool and even pewter pilgrim badges. And also lots of swords and and pointy hats for budding Robin Hoods! There is also plenty of entertainment including the Crazy Dutch Regulars who come over from Holland every year and get everyone dancing. It doesn't matter that most can understand what they are singing, and all are encouraged to join in. There are demonstrators like Jim the pot who makes pots from all periods and travels the world demonstrating his craft on a hand driven wheel . He makes replicas used in museums and on many a film. And then there is Jack Greene who is in a league of his own...

The Crazy Dutch folk musicians

For Jack Greene is an Alchemist and all round Renaissance man. You will meet many different and very interesting people in my business. Some who wear costume from long ago are admittedly a bit weird, but many have had many a varied career and all sorts of experiences prior to getting into reenactment. Jack was performing this weekend as Dr John Greene; a celebrated Tudor alchemist, but this is just one of many names Jack goes by. He has many different persona's, both in the Living History world and in the real world as well, from renowned potter to best selling author and inventor.

Dr John Greene's Travelling Laboratory

He brings a real touch of magic to these sort of events; tapping in as he does to children's and some adult's sense of wonder. In a session with jack you might get to assist in the making of a poisonous potion or even some dragons blood. Whilst scattered all around his travelling laboratory are dragon skins, dragon teeth, and even pickled dragon babies! To say nothing of the various potions and powders and strange and curious crystals from far off lands.

The alchemist at work



Dr John Greene with assistant cooking up some dragons Blood!

One of the other more entertaining aspects of the fayre is the nightlife, although this is only for the privileged few allowed to stay on the castle grounds at night. As I've said before about places like Battle Abbey, you get a completely different perspective of venues at night when all the public have gone home. Perhaps as with Battle it might be the wildlife who take over when all have left, or in the case of Nottingham, the wilder side of life off site. On this occasion its more about what can be see looking out from the castle and not looking in! The baileys in which I was camped are surrounded by a high stone wall looking out and over the city. And you are so high up looking down that most of the passers by have no idea that you are there...

Looking down from walls on the 'Trip'

That means that you can see all sorts of sights for the drinkers spilling out of the Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem known as the 'Trip' locally, which is said to be the oldest pub in England and definitely a great place to unwind after a long days telling. Their sausage and mash is fantastic, but be sure to get in early as its a popular pub especially with students who fill the place with their love of life and unquenchable thirst for ale!

Robin Hood by day. Standing firm and unmolested!

And just occasionally if you walk round the walls and look down near the entrance you can see a lad or lass making suggestive movements up against the statue of Robin Hood that stands there. They all think that they are the first to have done so and all get embarrassed when they here the laughter from up above!

Nottingham by night from the castle walls

That probably sounds a bit odd spying from the walls at clubbers and pubbers, but most take it in good stead. Some even have a bit of a chat or more correctly a shout with you, for its a long way up. And as i told a small group of passers by this weekend; Its like being Lord of your own castle for a day or two at least!

Thanks to Richard and his staff for yet another great event